~Whernside~
23rd January 2016
Another dry Saturday is forecast and a steam-hauled charter train is due over the Settle & Carlisle line, so it's off to Ribblehead for a look at the railway and then a leg-stretch over Whernside.
Whernside Top
Scroll down for photos and a description of the walk....
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This walk started from Chapel-le-Dale. It's 09:15hrs and we are in a bit of a hurry to get to Ribblehead before the steam train. Without trying to send you to sleep, the train is running late...but will it be allowed out of Hellifield ahead of the service train? This matter is in my head and has a bearing on when and where we might see the train.
Ribblehead Viaduct
At Broadrake farm I am able to tell a resident with camera in hand that the engine is not The Flying Scotsman and the train is at least 20 minutes late. Duly thanked, we continue at quite a pace.
Gunnerfleet Farm
Always noticeable on this walk along the base of Whernside is the scattering of limestone boulders. At this point, I have lost sight of the railway and a certain anxiety has set in (maybe only rail enthusiasts will understand this mindset). Anyway, we reach the line at Blea Moor sidings and before long I can hear a familiar whistle and a certain chuff-chuff sound.
LMS Class 5MT 4-6-0 nos 44871 and 45407
It should have been the inaugural mainline run for The Flying Scotsman after major repairs, but it isn't and judging by the huge numbers around Ribblehead, not everyone knew about the change of engine(s). This would not have been my preferred location, but that's how it goes sometimes. The service train was held back and came through 20 minutes late - not what I expected.
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All over in no time at all. How far do folk travel for the pleasure of seeing these locomotives in action? The get back in their cars and repeat the mileage to get back home. Each unto their own, for me there has to be a worthwhile secondary objective and today it is Whernside.
To The Tunnel
Whilst we missed the bulk of the crowds and I've not shown any photos of them, this is a quiet oasis in comparison to the scenes around Ribblehead. The glimpses of sunshine were not to last.
Blea Moor Tunnel
Back in the early '80s "they" wanted to close this line after allowing the Ribblehead Viaduct to fall into disrepair and then blaming the state of the viaduct as being the main reason for wishing to close the line! Thankfully it was not to be. Can you imagine the post-closure scene here? No rails, bricked up tunnel entrance, overgrown embankments (partially collapsed) and birch trees fighting the weather and soil conditions to stake their claim. Generations wondering what it was like to see trains on this route.
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Ascent Views
The ascent of Whernside from Blea Moor isn't pretty at the best of times; today hill mist was in attendance and before long walkers were in the thick of it. Still, look on the bright side, less photos of the viaduct!
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Well, I thought to myself, there is a wall-shelter at the top and I can sit for a while out of the breeze and enjoy my sandwich.
The Summit 2,415ft asl
Typically, that group of fast walkers whom I had let pass, have now annexed the shelter. I wasn't hungry, anyway.
Whernside Wall
A break in the misty conditions and away from the chill wind therein led to a lunch stop on the rocks (lower left). After which, we followed the wall to see where it went. Most walkers would descend here to complete their walk or tackle Ingleborough as part of the Three Peaks route.
Ribblehead Viaduct
Some may have noticed an ITV drama loosely based on the construction of the viaduct. "Jericho" is a typical period drama with central characters, love and hate etc. Don't expect much in the way of factual correctness, nothing was filmed here and the harshness of life in the shanty town on Batty Moss seems to have been avoided. The frequent advert breaks are a reminder of what we don't need but can have today and all the things that the navvies didn't possess back in the 1870's.
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Looking Back
Two views back along the four-mile long wall (Summit to Ewes Top). You may notice the change in surface geology has led to the wall being built of differing rocks as the altitude decreases. Sandstones and mudstone gives way to limestone - equally a squelchy walk yields to a much drier stretch under foot.
Ingleborough
Ewes Top
The limestone pavement above Twistleton Scars leads to the southern tip of the Whernside massif, marked on the map as Ewes Top. Given the number of sheep up here, maybe the name has accuracy.
Twistleton Scar End
Here, we join the "Waterfalls Walk" in the bit between the Rivers Doe & Twiss.
I had a brew at the little snack bar at the top of Beezleys Farm. Yet again, no seats available - all taken by the waterfalls' walkers.
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"Roman Road" through Twisleton Dale
The single-track, largely unfenced road back to Chapel-le-Dale extends for about three miles. It is worth noting that there are no car parking opportunities along here. At Twistleton Dale House, there is an invitation to pay to park - otherwise there are plenty of "No Parking" signs.
Chapel-le-Dale
St.Leonard Church, Chapel-le-Dale
"Around 1870 work began on the Ribblehead viaduct and Blea Moor tunnel. Over 200 men, women, and children, from the shanty towns which sprang up, died through accident and disease. These are buried in the quiet churchyard, and plaques in the church and the churchyard commemorate them." Quote taken from a website relating to the church.
One grave belongs to Job Hirst, the "builder" of the viaduct - the man in charge of the vast task just up the road. He died tragically before the work was finished, the victim of an ambush as he brought the wages from Ingelton - he died the morning after he was violently assaulted.
Walkers: Molly and Me.
Time taken: 6hrs over a distance of about 14 miles.
Route: Chapel-le-Dale, Philpin Lane, Broadrake Farm, Ivescar, Bleamoor Sidings, Whernside via the usual Three Peaks route (follow everyone else), The Wall to Ewes Top, Beezleys, un-fenced road back to Chapel-le-Dale.
Weather and conditions: Early brightness led to a misty walk along the tops, brighter again towards the end. Soggy underfoot in places!
Whernside on 12th February 2012 - more trains, much more ice and snow!
All photos copyright Richard Ratcliffe 2016 ©
Take me back to the start ....